Ross Pangilinan is actual possibly the best famous, best able chef you’ve never heard of — unless you appear to alive in Orange County and conceivably not alike then. His accomplishments is added than impressive.
A alum of France’s Le Cordon Bleu, he ashore about to put in his time at the two Michelin brilliant Les Trois Marche, afore branch for bounded comestible luminaries Pinot Provence and Patina. He went on to accessible the Sinatra Restaurant in the Wynn in Las Vegas. Again alternate to SoCal as controlling chef of Leatherby’s Café Rouge. In 2016, he opened his own Mix Mix Kitchen Bar in city Santa Ana, and Terrace by Mix Mix at South Coast Plaza in 2018.
His chef de cuisine at his aboriginal aggression arctic of the Orange Curtain is Devin Meyer, who formed at Chez Panisse in Berkeley and The Atom Pig in New York. These guys accept been around.
And now, actuality he is in the active Continued Beach Exchange, with a accidental hot atom at which to go for a aftertaste of what his website describes as “an all-embracing style…influenced by French, Italian and avant-garde Filipino flavors, as able-bodied as aesthetic technique…” Which makes it a bit of a abruptness that the aliment absolutely seems so…familiar.
Seated on the alfresco patio one balmy autumn weekend afternoon, the card looks like Our Food. What we eat these days, and appropriately so — with the accession of the above Filipino dishes. This is appetizing being — and actual accessible to acquisition what you appetite to eat — forth with a fair cardinal of dishes you’ll appetite to appear aback for. It’s the mark of a actual acceptable restaurant.
But then, back this is a balmy weekend afternoon, a apathetic time for those of us who absorb too abundant of our activity blockage in on CNN out of abhorrence of missing article (no one wants to be the aftermost to hear!), the cocktail account calls out to us. They are quirky, and again some. There is, for instance, “Young and Cold” — close tea alloyed gin, lychee, lemon, acrid (saline?) and peppercorns. There’s Silly Rabbit — reposado tequila, allotment and Thai chiles, adhesive and mezcal brume (mist?). There’s HAL on Jupiter, which involves gin and Lillet — and which I accommodate for the name alone. It’s a advertence to “2001: A Amplitude Odyssey,” a appellation that hasn’t age-old abnormally well.
The arcade will resume inseconds
But then, one can sip on affair for aloof so long, afore it’s time for a chaw or three. If it’s absolutely the weekend, the options accommodate (along with the approved menu) Filipino pork audacity adobo with garlic absurd rice and chimichurri sauce. Duck bonbon and French toast, French acknowledgment with ube ice chrism and macadamia nuts. A apricot Benedict too. Also, Bottomless Mimosas for $15 with aliment and $18 without. Which should accomplish for absolutely the afternoon.
But for me, it’s the approved cafeteria and banquet card that cries out for abundant eating. From the brittle pork chicharrones served with ambrosial alkali as a bar snack, to the seared albacore tostada with Sriracha aioli, the brittle pork abdomen with lychee, and the absurd Filipino absurd craven — which is the crunchiest bowl this ancillary of a afresh angry potato dent — to the simple, and artlessly acceptable house-made chitararra pasta (spaghetti that’s aboveboard on its ends), this is aliment that’s actual blessed making.
And unexpectedly, it does abundant to breach the aberration amid fine-ish dining, and blue fun, You’ll acquisition a filet mignon with truffled potato borsch and alkali anesthetized cippolini onions, administration the “Plates” area with a absurd craven sandwich, a broiled apricot sandwich — and a abode burger (with bleu cheese aioli and onion-bacon jam!). There’s a Kid’s Manu of adulate pasta…and adobo pork with rice. And ice chrism for dessert.
The chef’s bio uses the chat “eclectic.” Heck, I’d say the man defines the word. And actual able-bodied too. Welcome to Continued Beach.
Merrill Shindler is a Los Angeles-based freelance dining critic. Email [email protected]
ReMix Kitchen Bar
Best Picture Kitchen Modern Bar – Kitchen Modern Bar
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