Unpacking my arcade basket, the kitchen table looks like a Dutch still life. There are late, locally developed tomatoes; the aftermost of the gold and bittersweet plums; and long, pink-skinned onions.
The autumn raspberries are with us now and yet there are still some fat cucumbers, baby beetroots and herbs from the garden.
We should accomplish the best of what is still actuality afore it disappears
For addition who buys as abundant of their aliment as accessible from baby absolute shops and acreage boxes, there couldn’t be a added acceptable time of year.
I can’t anticipate of it as a sad accident that such acceptable things are advancing to an end. (I charge accept to packing boxes of damsons and blackcurrants in the freezer.) Other capacity will be forth soon. Nevertheless, there is a activity that we should accomplish the best of what is still actuality afore it disappears.
I will be decidedly apologetic to see the alfresco tomatoes go. They accept been abounding this year, abounding flavoured and juicy. I can’t bethink bistro absolutely so abounding tomatoes before. There are a few stragglers left, but their swansong this anniversary was a basin in all colours and sizes, broiled till they were scorched, and eaten with a algid cucumber and beetroot raita.
And the plums sang their aftermost song, too. They were broiled until their juices ran, again eaten hot with a maple and ricotta cream.
The adverse of baking tomatoes and ice-cold raita is decidedly pleasing. I use algid baptize to mix with the yogurt but will generally add a few ice cubes to the basin as I accompany it to the table to ensure it is thoroughly chilled. Serves 4
For the raitacucumber 300gonions 2 smallgroundnut oil 2 tbspcurry leaves 12natural yogurt 200mliced baptize 80mlbeetroot 300gwhite-wine alkali 3 tbspmint leaves 12parsley leaves a handful
Peel the cucumber, agilely atom off the aphotic blooming bark with a vegetable peeler, again allotment it in bisected bottomward its length. Using a teaspoon, scrape and abandon the ailing amount from anniversary half. Coarsely abrade the cucumber into a ample sieve, baptize with a little alkali and leave to cesspool over a bowl.
Switch the barbecue on. Cut the tomatoes in bisected and abode them cut ancillary up on a barbecue pan or baking area lined with foil. Agilely division with salt. Baker the tomatoes beneath the barbecue for 10 account or until their cut edges alpha to brown.
Meanwhile, bark and agilely allotment the onions. Balmy the oil in a bank pan, add the onions and fry over abstinent calefaction till brittle and golden. Add the back-scratch leaves and fry for a minute or so till they curl, again lift out them with a clarification beanery and cesspool them on kitchen paper.
Put the yogurt in a medium-sized bond basin and barrel in the algid baptize with a fork, awning and refrigerate. Bark the beetroot, again coarsely abrade it into a baby bowl. Baptize the white-wine alkali over the beetroot and set it aside. Finely chop the excellent and parsley leaves and add them to the beetroot.
Squeeze the damp from the grated cucumber, bend into the yogurt with a fork, again add the beetroot, active briefly. (If you activity too abundant your raita will about-face ablaze pink.) Tip into a confined basin and add the absurd onions and back-scratch leaves.
Transfer the broiled tomatoes to a confined dish, again beanery over the juices from the barbecue pan. Serve with the cucumber and beetroot raita.
Baking is a gentler way to baker plums than in a pan on the hob. The bake-apple has beneath addiction to collapse back larboard to broil – and, bigger still, the banknote acknowledgment agilely in the calefaction of the oven. I use no water, aloof fruit, amoroso and spices, but add a few spoonfuls of aqueous if you appetite added syrup. Baptize will do, but marsala or a medium-dry sherry would be good, too.
The ricotta maple chrism needs alone a abrupt stirring, so you get ribbons of maple abstract and chrism active through the ricotta. If you activity too agilely the admixture will seize.
plums 16-40caster amoroso 40gground biscuit 1 tspcinnamon stick halfbay leaves 3
For the ricotta cream:double chrism 150mlricotta 125gmaple abstract 3 tbsp
Set the oven at 200C/gas mark 6. Wipe the plums and put them in a baking basin or baking tin in a distinct layer. Baptize the alembic amoroso and arena biscuit over the plums again constrict in the biscuit stick and the bay leaves. Abode the baking basin in the oven and broil for 25 account or until the plums accept started to breach and a abstract has formed in the basal of the dish. Remove the plums from the oven.
The ricotta maple chrism needs alone a abrupt stirring, so you get ribbons of abstract and cream
While the plums are baking, accomplish the ricotta-maple cream. Pour the bifold chrism into a algid basin and barrel until it starts to thicken. Stop back it will sit on bendable folds, afore it is annealed abundant to angle in peaks.
Fold the ricotta into the chrism with a angle carefully, authoritative abiding not to over-mix. A affable activity with a angle is enough. Pour in the maple abstract and about-face already or twice, so as to leave ribbons of abstract through the cream. Awning and arctic in the fridge until the plums are ready.
Serve the broiled plums while they’re warm, with a basin of the ricotta-maple cream. Add a dosage of the chrism to the plums at the table, absolution the air-conditioned chrism cook into the warm, dank asset juices.
Follow Nigel on Twitter @NigelSlater
Top Image Garden Table Juices – Garden Table Juices
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